The Snowbird's Checklist: Sealing & Protecting Vacant Homes All Winter

Every October, millions of snowbirds across America face the same uncomfortable reality: locking up their northern homes and hoping for the best until spring. You've drained the pipes, set the thermostat, and maybe asked a neighbor to keep an eye out. But deep down, that nagging worry persists—what if something goes wrong while you're 1,500 miles away sipping coffee in Florida?

Here's the thing. Vacant homes are vulnerable homes. Without daily occupancy to catch small problems before they become disasters, a minor leak can turn into major water damage, and a forgotten gap under the door can invite everything from freezing drafts to unwanted pests. The good news? A solid winterization plan—including proper sealing of entry points—can dramatically reduce your risk and let you actually enjoy your time down south.

This guide walks you through exactly how to seal and protect your vacant home all winter, with a focus on practical, DIY solutions that won't require a contractor or break the bank.

Why Protecting Vacant Homes in Winter Matters More Than You Think

Leaving a home unoccupied for months isn't just about turning off lights and forwarding mail. The risks compound in ways that occupied homes simply don't experience.

Water damage tops the list. According to the Insurance Information Institute, water damage and freezing account for nearly one in five homeowner insurance claims [1]. And vacant properties face disproportionate risk—without someone present to notice a dripping pipe or catch a storm warning, damage can escalate unchecked for days or even weeks.

Then there's the energy drain. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that air leaks around doors and windows can account for 25-30% of heating and cooling energy use [2]. In a vacant home where you're maintaining just enough heat to prevent pipe freeze, those drafts translate directly into wasted money and unnecessary strain on your HVAC system.

Beyond water and energy, unsealed gaps create entry points for:

• Rodents and insects seeking warmth during cold months

• Moisture infiltration that leads to mold growth

• Cold air that can cause localized freezing even when central heating runs

• Dust and debris that accumulates in unexpected places

The bottom line? Proper sealing isn't optional—it's essential winter prep for any vacant property.

Common Entry Points That Need Attention

Before grabbing any supplies, walk your property with fresh eyes. You're looking for any gap, crack, or opening where air, water, or pests could enter. Most homes share these common trouble spots:

Exterior Doors

The gap between your door and threshold is often the biggest culprit. Standard weatherstripping wears down over time, and many doors have gaps large enough to slide a pencil through. Side jambs and the top of door frames also develop gaps as houses settle.

Garage Doors

Garage door seals take a beating from daily use and frequently crack or compress. The sides and top of garage doors are often overlooked but can allow significant air and water infiltration.

Windows

Even closed windows can leak. Check where the window frame meets the wall (especially on older homes), around any operational components, and at the junction of multiple panes.

Foundation Vents and Access Points

Crawl space vents, dryer vents, and any utility penetrations need inspection. Many homeowners forget about the small gaps around pipe and wire entry points.

Sliding Glass Doors

The track area on sliding doors is notorious for air leakage. The weatherstripping along the door edge also tends to compress and lose effectiveness.

What Temperature Should You Keep a Vacant House in Winter?

This is one of the most common questions snowbirds ask—and getting it right can mean the difference between a safe return and a disaster.

The general recommendation is to keep your thermostat set no lower than 55°F (13°C). This temperature provides enough warmth to prevent pipes from freezing in most situations, while still conserving energy compared to your normal heating settings.

However, several factors might require you to adjust:

• Homes with pipes in exterior walls or unheated spaces may need a slightly higher setting (58-60°F) or additional precautions like pipe insulation

• Extremely cold climates with prolonged sub-zero temperatures warrant extra vigilance

• Older homes with poor insulation lose heat faster, meaning the thermostat setting doesn't always reflect actual temperatures in vulnerable areas

A smart thermostat with remote monitoring capabilities is worth the investment. Many models will alert you if the indoor temperature drops below a set threshold, giving you time to contact someone locally before pipes freeze.

Pro tip: Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls to allow warm air to circulate around pipes. This simple step helps prevent freezing even if temperatures drop unexpectedly.

How to Keep Mice Out of Your House in Winter

Rodents aren't just a nuisance—they can cause serious damage to a vacant home. Mice chew through wiring (creating fire hazards), contaminate stored items, and leave behind waste that's both unsanitary and costly to clean up.

The National Pest Management Association notes that mice can squeeze through openings as small as a dime [3]. That means the same gaps that let cold air in are essentially welcome mats for rodents.

Prevention starts with sealing entry points:

1. Inspect the perimeter of your home at ground level, looking for gaps around foundation vents, utility penetrations, and where siding meets the foundation

2. Check garage door seals carefully—the bottom seal is a common entry point

3. Examine areas where pipes and wires enter the home, both inside and outside

4. Look at door sweeps and thresholds—if daylight shows through, mice can too

Additional deterrents for vacant homes:

• Remove all food items, including pantry staples in cardboard or thin plastic

• Clean thoroughly before leaving—crumbs and food residue attract pests

• Consider placing deterrents (mint sachets, ultrasonic devices) in areas prone to entry

• Have your house checker look for signs of activity during visits

The most effective approach combines sealing gaps with removing attractants. A mouse won't work hard to enter a home that offers no food reward.

How FloodTape® Provides Temporary Protection for Vacant Homes

When you need a seal that's strong enough to block water and air but won't be permanent, FloodTape® offers a practical solution. Originally designed for flood protection, this 8-inch wide waterproof tape creates an airtight, watertight barrier that peels off cleanly—no residue, no paint damage.

Why does this matter for snowbirds? Traditional sealing methods like caulk or expanding foam work great for permanent fixes, but they're not ideal when you'll be opening those doors and windows again in a few months. And standard tapes? Anyone who's scraped dried duct tape adhesive off a door frame knows that nightmare.

FloodTape® adheres to wood, metal, glass, vinyl, and even stucco surfaces [4]. Apply it before you leave, and it creates a barrier against:

• Air infiltration and drafts

• Water intrusion during winter storms

• Pest entry through gaps

• Dust and debris accumulation

When you return in spring, it peels away without the cleanup headache. One Florida homeowner reported using FloodTape® on rental property doors during storm season and finding "no damage on paint or residue left" after removal [5].

Step-by-Step: Sealing Your Vacant Home for Winter

Step 1: Conduct a Thorough Inspection

On a windy day, walk the interior perimeter of your home. Feel around doors and windows for drafts. Better yet, have someone stand outside with a flashlight at night—you'll spot light leaking through gaps you never knew existed.

Make a list of every opening that needs attention. Be thorough now so you're not rushing later.

Step 2: Clean All Surfaces

FloodTape® and most sealing products need clean, dry surfaces to adhere properly. Use a dry cloth to remove dust, dirt, and cobwebs from:

• Door frames and thresholds

• Window frames and sills

• Garage door edges

• Any other surfaces you'll be sealing

Don't skip this step. Adhesive applied to dirty surfaces fails faster and may not create a proper seal.

Step 3: Seal Doors and Large Gaps

For doors you won't be using all winter, FloodTape® provides an effective temporary seal:

1. Cut the tape to the length needed for each section

2. Peel back the protective film

3. Press firmly along the gap between the door and frame

4. Overlap sections by at least two inches for continuous coverage

5. Run your hand along the entire seal to ensure full adhesion

For the threshold gap at the bottom of doors, apply tape across the entire width, pressing into the junction between door bottom and floor.

Step 4: Address Windows

Windows that won't be opened can be sealed at the frame-to-wall junction. Focus on:

• The bottom edge where water is most likely to enter

• Any visible gaps in the frame

• Areas where you felt drafts during inspection

For windows with known issues, consider covering the entire interior frame perimeter.

Step 5: Protect the Garage

Garage doors present unique challenges due to their size and mechanical operation. For vacant homes, seal the bottom edge and side gaps where the door meets the frame when closed. If you have a walk-through door in the garage, treat it like any exterior door.

Step 6: Don't Forget Secondary Entry Points

Check and seal:

• Pet doors (if not removing them entirely)

• Mail slots

• Dryer vent flaps

• Foundation access panels

• Any other utility penetrations with visible gaps

The Snowbird's Complete Winter Protection Checklist

Print this out and work through it before you leave. Your future self will thank you.

Water System Protection

Proper winterization of your plumbing is critical. Here's how to do it right:

• [ ] Shut off the main water supply at the valve where water enters your home

• [ ] Drain all pipes by opening faucets at the highest and lowest points in your home and letting water run until it stops

• [ ] Drain the water heater by connecting a hose to the drain valve and emptying it completely (turn off power/gas first)

• [ ] Flush toilets to empty tanks, then add RV antifreeze to bowls and tanks to prevent remaining water from freezing

• [ ] Pour RV antifreeze into all drain traps (sinks, showers, floor drains) to prevent the water in P-traps from freezing

• [ ] Disconnect and drain washing machine hoses; run a short empty cycle first to clear the pump

• [ ] Turn off the ice maker and shut off the water line to your refrigerator

Why RV antifreeze? Regular automotive antifreeze is toxic and should never be used in plumbing systems. RV antifreeze is non-toxic and designed specifically for potable water systems.

Heating and Energy

• [ ] Set thermostat to 55°F minimum (prevents pipe freeze)

• [ ] Have HVAC serviced before departure

• [ ] Replace furnace filter with a fresh one

• [ ] Seal all doors and windows to reduce heat loss

• [ ] Consider smart thermostat for remote monitoring

• [ ] Ensure backup heat source battery is fresh (if applicable)

Security Measures

• [ ] Install timers on interior lights (vary the timing to simulate occupancy)

• [ ] Arrange for mail hold or forwarding

• [ ] Notify trusted neighbor or hire a professional house checker

• [ ] Ensure all exterior doors are sealed and locked

• [ ] Consider water leak sensors with remote alerts

• [ ] Unplug garage door opener (prevents break-ins via universal remotes)

Entry Point Sealing

• [ ] Inspect all exterior doors for gaps

• [ ] Clean surfaces around doors and windows

• [ ] Apply temporary sealing tape to unused doors

• [ ] Seal window frames where drafts detected

• [ ] Address garage door gaps

• [ ] Seal pet doors, mail slots, and vents

General Preparation

• [ ] Clean out refrigerator completely (leave door slightly ajar to prevent mold)

• [ ] Dispose of all perishable food—including pantry items that attract pests

• [ ] Unplug unnecessary electronics (prevents fire risk and saves energy)

• [ ] Close fireplace damper tightly

• [ ] Trim tree branches near home (prevents storm damage)

• [ ] Clear gutters and downspouts (prevents ice dams)

• [ ] Take photos of your home's condition for insurance documentation

Real Scenarios: What Proper Sealing Prevents

The Frozen Door Frame

A Vermont snowbird returned in April to find water damage around his front door. Winter storms had driven rain and snow into gaps around the door frame. The water froze, expanded, and cracked the surrounding drywall. Total repair cost: over $2,000 plus the hassle of coordinating contractors from out of state.

Had the door frame been properly sealed before departure, the water intrusion simply wouldn't have occurred.

The Rodent Highway

A Michigan couple discovered mice had nested in their vacation home's kitchen over winter. The entry point? A quarter-inch gap under the garage door leading to the house. The mice caused several hundred dollars in damage chewing through food packaging and leaving waste throughout the pantry.

Sealing that single gap would have eliminated the entry point entirely.

The Draft That Cost Hundreds

An Ohio homeowner kept his vacant home at 55°F all winter—standard practice to prevent pipes from freezing. But unsealed gaps around his 1970s-era doors let cold air stream in, forcing the furnace to run far more than necessary. His winter heating bills ran nearly 40% higher than his neighbor's similarly sized home.

Proper sealing creates an envelope that holds heat inside, reducing the workload on your heating system even when you're maintaining minimal temperatures.

When You Return: Removing Temporary Seals

Spring arrives, and it's time to open the house back up. Here's how to remove FloodTape® without damaging surfaces:

1. Start at one corner and peel slowly at a low angle

2. If any adhesive remains (rare, but possible on porous surfaces), a damp cloth usually removes it

3. Inspect the door and window surfaces for any issues that developed over winter

4. Decide if permanent weatherstripping repairs are needed before next season

One New England homeowner who used FloodTape® on basement windows reported testing it with a hose before winter—"not a drop got in"—and removing it easily in spring with no surface damage [6].

Long-Term Protection: Beyond Temporary Seals

Temporary sealing gets you through each winter, but some improvements deserve permanent attention:

Replace worn weatherstripping on doors you use regularly. Modern options last longer and seal better than what came with your home.

Install door sweeps with adjustable heights to accommodate seasonal swelling and contraction.

Caulk permanent gaps around window frames where the frame meets the wall. Use paintable, flexible caulk that can handle temperature fluctuations.

Consider storm doors for frequently used entrances. They create an air buffer that dramatically reduces infiltration.

Upgrade to insulated garage doors if yours is older and uninsulated. The energy savings often justify the investment.

Protect Your Home While You're Away

Leaving your home vacant all winter doesn't have to mean leaving it vulnerable. With systematic sealing of entry points, you create a protective envelope that keeps water out, holds heat in, and blocks pests from making themselves at home.

FloodTape® makes this process simpler because it's designed for exactly this kind of temporary, high-performance sealing. Easy to install, easy to remove—no residue, no damage to paint or finishes. Apply it in minutes, trust it all winter, and remove it cleanly when you return.

Ready to seal up before heading south? Get FloodTape® now and cross "protect the house" off your snowbird checklist for good.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long can FloodTape® stay applied to doors and windows?

FloodTape® is designed for temporary use and performs well when applied for periods up to several months. For snowbirds leaving homes vacant for a full winter season, the tape maintains its seal effectively throughout. For optimal adhesive performance, store unused rolls in a cool, dry place and use within 24 months of purchase [7].

Will FloodTape® damage paint or wood finishes when removed?

No. FloodTape® is specifically engineered to peel off cleanly without leaving residue or damaging paint, varnish, or wood finishes. Multiple users have confirmed successful removal from antique wood doors and painted frames with no surface damage [5]. For best results, remove by peeling slowly at a low angle rather than pulling straight out.

What surfaces does FloodTape® adhere to?

FloodTape® adheres to most common building materials including wood, glass, metal, vinyl, stucco, and stone [4]. The key requirement is that surfaces must be clean and dry before application. Dusty, damp, or oily surfaces will reduce adhesive effectiveness regardless of the material.

Can I use FloodTape® in freezing temperatures?

Yes. FloodTape® is designed to withstand temperature fluctuations typical of winter conditions, including protection against ice and melting snow [8]. Apply the tape when surfaces are dry, even if temperatures are cold. The adhesive maintains its seal through freeze-thaw cycles common in northern climates.

How much FloodTape® do I need for a typical home?

Each roll provides 20 feet of coverage at 8 inches wide. For most single-family homes, two to three rolls cover primary entry points including front door, back door, and garage door perimeter. Homes with many windows to seal or multiple exterior doors may need additional rolls. Measure your gaps before purchasing to determine exact needs.

About This Guide

This article was developed in consultation with homeowners who have successfully protected vacant properties across multiple winter seasons. FloodTape® was invented by Matthias Herzog, a Florida resident who spent 15 years dealing with hurricane-related water intrusion and created a solution that seals effectively yet removes cleanly—addressing problems that traditional tapes and temporary barriers couldn't solve [9]. The recommendations in this guide reflect real-world applications of FloodTape® and established winterization best practices from home protection experts.

Cited Works

[1] Insurance Information Institute — "Facts + Statistics: Homeowners and renters insurance." https://www.iii.org/fact-statistic/facts-statistics-homeowners-and-renters-insurance

[2] U.S. Department of Energy — "Air Sealing Your Home." https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/air-sealing-your-home

[3] National Pest Management Association — "Rodents." https://www.pestworld.org/pest-guide/rodents/

[4] FloodTape® — "FAQs for FloodTape® | DIY Flood Protection System." https://www.myfloodtape.com/faq

[5] FloodTape® — "Reviews for FloodTape® | Waterproof Tape for Flood Protection." https://www.myfloodtape.com/store-locator

[6] FloodTape® — "Reviews for FloodTape® | Waterproof Tape for Flood Protection." https://www.myfloodtape.com/store-locator

[7] FloodTape® — "FAQs for FloodTape® | DIY Flood Protection System." https://www.myfloodtape.com/faq

[8] FloodTape® — "FAQs for FloodTape® | DIY Flood Protection System." https://www.myfloodtape.com/faq

[9] FloodTape® — "About FloodTape® | Waterproof Flood Protection Tape." https://www.myfloodtape.com/about