Stop Cold Air Coming Under Your Door: What Actually Works (According to Testing and Research)
- Matthias Herzog
- 3 days ago
- 17 min read
If you're feeling cold air seeping under your door, you're dealing with one of the most common—and most fixable—energy efficiency problems for anyone trying to stop cold air coming under door.
The numbers tell the story: The average home loses up to 30% of its heating and cooling energy through air leaks, with doors and windows accounting for the majority of those losses. But unlike many home improvement projects, fixing door drafts typically costs under $100 and delivers measurable results within the first heating season especially when trying to stop cold air coming under door.
This guide synthesizes research from the Department of Energy, field testing by weatherization professionals, and product performance data to provide realistic solutions for homeowners wanting to stop cold air coming under door. We'll cover what works, what doesn't, and why—without the usual marketing hype or oversimplified fixes.
Understanding the Energy Impact (Real Numbers)
Before investing time or money in door sealing, it helps to understand the actual impact and why it matters to stop cold air coming under door.
According to Department of Energy data, homes with significant air leaks can lose 10-30% of their heated or cooled air through gaps and cracks throughout the structure. Doors contribute a measurable portion of this loss, though rarely all of it.
Research shows that a 1/8-inch gap under a standard 36-inch door creates approximately the same airflow as a 2.4-inch diameter hole in your wall—about 4.5 square inches of unrestricted air exchange. For context, that's continuous airflow of roughly 15-25 cubic feet per minute (CFM) under typical pressure differentials.
The financial impact varies by climate, heating system efficiency, and fuel costs. In heating-dominated climates, door air leakage can add $50-150 annually to heating bills for a typical single-family home. That's not catastrophic, but it's also not trivial—especially when the fix costs less than the annual loss.
Energy.gov reports that proper weatherstripping can reduce heating costs by up to 20%, though this figure reflects comprehensive air sealing throughout the home, not just doors. Realistically, sealing a single drafty door might reduce your total heating bill by 3-8%, depending on home size and the severity of the leak and help stop cold air coming under door effectively.
Diagnostic Testing: Finding Your Specific Leak
Generic advice rarely helps because every door situation differs when trying to stop cold air coming under door. Start with proper diagnosis.
Visual inspection during temperature extremes. On a cold, windy day (ideally when the temperature differential exceeds 20°F), close the door and look for obvious gaps. The threshold—where the door bottom meets the floor—is the most common problem area, but don't ignore the sides and top.
Smoke pencil or incense test. This remains the most reliable DIY diagnostic for anyone researching how to stop cold air coming under door. Light an incense stick or smoke pencil and slowly trace the door perimeter with the door closed. Watch the smoke pattern:
Steady horizontal drift = significant air infiltration
Slight turbulence = minor leakage (may not warrant fixing)
Undisturbed smoke = good seal
Pay particular attention to:
The threshold gap (bottom)
Both side jambs where the door meets the frame
The top header
The latch side when the door is closed but not locked
Blower door testing (professional option). For comprehensive home air sealing, professional blower door testing (cost: $200-400) quantifies total air leakage and identifies all problem areas, not just doors. Many utility companies offer subsidized or free energy audits that include this testing.
Quick Temporary Solutions to Stop Cold Air Coming Under Door (And Their Limitations)
Sometimes you need immediate relief if you're trying to stop cold air coming under door fast.
Draft stoppers (door snakes). These weighted fabric tubes placed against the door bottom provide instant relief and cost $10-25. They're effective for blocking floor-level airflow but require manual placement and removal with each use.
Testing shows quality matters significantly. Door snakes with ceramic bead filling maintain their shape better than rice or sand-filled versions, which can develop gaps after repeated compression. The optimal length should match your door width exactly—too short creates bypass channels.
Limitations: Only addresses bottom gap, must be moved for door operation, won't work with irregular floor surfaces.
Temporary rope caulk. This clay-like material (typically $3-6 per 90-foot roll) can be pressed into gaps and peeled off later without damage. It works reasonably well for seasonal sealing of doors that won't be used frequently.
Application temperature matters: rope caulk becomes brittle below 40°F and messy above 85°F. Apply it when outdoor temperatures are moderate (50-70°F) for best results.
Limitations: Visible and unattractive, doesn't work on heavily-used doors, can leave slight residue despite marketing claims.
Waterproof sealing tape (specialty solution). While standard weatherstripping works best for routine door sealing, some homeowners use specialty waterproof tapes designed primarily for emergency flood protection as a temporary door sealing solution.
Products like FloodTape® were engineered for emergency flood barriers—creating temporary watertight seals on doors, windows, and gaps during flood events. However, the wide (8-inch) double-sided adhesive design can also function as a temporary air seal for doors during extreme cold periods.
Important context: This is an off-label application. FloodTape's primary purpose is flood protection, not routine weatherization. That said, for doors you won't open frequently during winter months, it can provide a temporary seal that blocks both air and moisture infiltration.
Application for temporary door sealing:
Clean and dry the door threshold and frame thoroughly
Ensure surface temperature is above 50°F for proper adhesion
Cut tape to length and apply along door bottom and side jambs
Press firmly for complete contact
Remove when you need to use the door or when weather moderates
The advantage over rope caulk: cleaner removal without residue or paint damage. The disadvantage: it's expensive relative to purpose-built weatherstripping products, and you're using a specialized flood protection product for general draft sealing.
Cost consideration: FloodTape typically costs $35-50 for a 20-foot roll—significantly more than standard weatherstripping. The value proposition makes sense if you need both flood emergency protection AND occasional winter door sealing, but less sense if you only need draft prevention.
Plastic film kits. Window insulation kits ($5-15) can be adapted for glass-paneled doors or storm doors. The heat-shrink method creates a secondary air barrier that reduces conductive heat loss through glass.
One notable finding from field tests: plastic film reduces air infiltration by 60-80% but only reduces total door heat loss by 25-40% because conduction through the glass itself remains unchanged. Still worthwhile for old single-pane storm doors.
Permanent Weatherstripping Solutions: Product Comparison
The most effective way to stop drafts is with permanent door weatherstripping. Product options include:
Foam Tape Weatherstripping
Best for: Light-duty interior doors, irregular surfaces, DIY beginners Cost: $5-10 per door Lifespan: 1-3 years Pros: Easiest installation, conforms to irregular gaps, inexpensive Cons: Shortest lifespan, compresses permanently, degrades in UV exposure
Closed-cell foam (typically EPDM or neoprene) performs significantly better than open-cell foam. In side-by-side testing, closed-cell foam maintained 75% of its original thickness after 500 compression cycles, while open-cell foam compressed to 40% of original thickness.
Application tips: Clean surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, ensure surface temperature exceeds 50°F during installation, apply consistent pressure along entire length, don't stretch the tape during application.
V-Strip (Tension Seal) Weatherstripping
Best for: Double-hung windows and swinging doors with consistent gaps Cost: $10-20 per door Lifespan: 5-10 years Pros: Long-lasting, provides spring tension for better seal, durable Cons: More difficult installation, requires consistent gap width, doesn't work on irregular surfaces
V-strip comes in bronze (most durable but expensive), stainless steel (good balance), and plastic (adequate for interior use). Professional weatherization programs typically specify bronze or stainless steel for exterior applications.
The installation requires precision: the V must be sized to fit the gap width (typically 1/8" to 3/16"). Too tight creates excessive friction; too loose fails to seal. Measure your actual gaps before purchasing.
EPDM Rubber Weatherstripping
Best for: Exterior doors, moderate traffic areas, long-term solution Cost: $12-25 per door
Lifespan: 7-12 years Pros: Excellent durability, resists UV and temperature extremes, maintains flexibility Cons: More expensive, requires careful size selection
EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber outperforms most other weatherstripping materials in independent testing. It maintains flexibility from -40°F to 250°F and resists ozone degradation that destroys cheaper rubber compounds.
Look for EPDM weatherstripping with adhesive-backed foam core for easier installation. The foam provides cushioning while the EPDM outer layer provides durability.
Magnetic Weatherstripping
Best for: Metal doors, commercial applications, maximum air sealing Cost: $30-60 per door Lifespan: 10-15 years Pros: Most airtight seal, long lifespan, maintains contact regardless of slight warping Cons: Only works with steel doors, most expensive, requires careful installation
Magnetic weatherstripping uses flexible magnetic strips that pull the door tightly against the frame. Testing shows this achieves the lowest air infiltration rates—often below 0.01 CFM per linear foot.
The catch: magnetic weatherstripping requires a steel door and steel frame, limiting applicability to many homes.
Door Sweep Installation: Getting It Right
Door sweeps specifically address the threshold gap and deserve careful attention since this represents the largest air leakage area for most doors.
Door sweep types:
Bottom-mounted sweeps attach to the door's interior bottom edge with screws. These are most common and work well for doors with consistent threshold contact. The sweep should drag lightly on the threshold—enough to seal but not enough to create significant resistance.
Testing various products reveals quality differences. Premium door sweeps (typically $20-35) use durable nylon or vinyl fins that maintain flexibility in cold weather. Budget sweeps ($8-15) often use rubber that stiffens below 40°F, reducing sealing effectiveness.
Automatic door sweeps lift when the door opens and drop when it closes. These solve the wear problem but cost more ($35-75) and have moving parts that can fail. They're most useful for heavily-trafficked exterior doors where sweep wear is a concern.
U-shaped door bottom seals wrap around the door bottom edge, sealing both the interior and exterior faces. These provide superior sealing but require door removal for installation and won't work if floor surfaces are uneven.
Installation specifications:
For optimal performance, the door sweep should:
Contact the threshold along its entire length
Create slight compression (1/16" to 1/8") when door is closed
Not bind or create excessive friction during door operation
Be installed square to the door bottom (not angled)
A common error: over-tightening sweep screws. This causes the sweep to bow in the middle, creating gaps near the door edges. Tighten screws just until snug, then test closure before final tightening.
Door Alignment: The Overlooked Factor
Sometimes weatherstripping fails not because of product quality but because the door doesn't close properly.
Hinge maintenance. Loose hinge screws account for most door alignment problems. Check all hinges:
Tighten all visible screws
If screws spin without tightening, they've stripped the wood
For stripped screws, fill holes with wooden matchsticks and wood glue, let cure, then redrive screws
Consider upgrading to longer screws (3" instead of standard 1.5") that bite into the wall framing rather than just the jamb
Strike plate adjustment. If the door latch doesn't engage firmly, adjust the strike plate:
Loosen strike plate screws
Close the door and note where the latch bolt contacts the strike plate
Reposition strike plate so latch engages fully
Tighten screws and test closure
A properly adjusted strike plate pulls the door tightly against the weatherstripping around the entire perimeter.
Plane or replace? Severely warped doors present a dilemma. Minor warping (up to 1/4") can be compensated with thick weatherstripping. Beyond that, you're choosing between:
Planing the door edge (requires door removal, skill with hand tools)
Installing additional shims behind hinges to tilt the door
Replacing the door entirely (typically $200-800 for pre-hung door)
For most homeowners, weatherstripping adjustments and hinge maintenance solve 80% of alignment issues without more invasive work.
Frame-to-Wall Gap Sealing
A frequently overlooked air leakage path: the space between the door frame and the rough opening in the wall.
During construction, installers typically fill this gap with fiberglass insulation or expanding foam, then cover it with trim. Over time, settling can create air channels that bypass the door weatherstripping entirely.
Diagnostic test: Remove the interior door casing (trim) on one side. Use a smoke pencil to check for air movement between the door frame and the wall. If smoke is pulled into the gap, you have frame leakage.
Repair options:
Caulking seals small gaps effectively. Apply latex caulk at the joint between door trim and wall:
Use paintable latex caulk for interior applications
Apply a thin bead (avoid excessive caulk that creates visible bumps)
Tool with a damp finger for smooth finish
Paint after 24 hours if desired
Foam insulation addresses larger gaps behind the trim:
Remove interior trim
Use low-expansion foam (not standard expanding foam, which can bow the door frame)
Fill gaps in 2-3 layers rather than one thick application
Allow each layer to cure before adding more
Trim excess foam after full cure (24 hours)
Reinstall trim
When to use each: Caulk handles visible gaps up to 1/4". For anything larger or if removing trim reveals substantial voids, foam insulation is necessary.
Regular maintenance of these gaps ensures door weatherstripping works effectively.
Cost Analysis: Investment vs. Return
Realistic expectations matter. Here's what comprehensive door weatherization actually costs and saves.
Typical investment (materials for one exterior door):
Quality EPDM weatherstripping: $15-25
Door sweep: $15-35
Caulk for frame gaps: $5-10
Installation time: 2-4 hours
Total: $35-70 per door
Expected savings:
This is where many guides overstate results. The Department of Energy's 20% heating cost reduction figure reflects comprehensive whole-house air sealing, not just door weatherstripping.
More realistic expectations for sealing a single drafty exterior door:
Annual savings: $40-120 depending on climate and heating costs
Payback period: 4-18 months
Lifetime savings: $300-1,200 (assuming 8-10 year weatherstripping lifespan)
The energy audit data I've reviewed suggests that door weatherization typically reduces total home heating costs by 3-8% per sealed door in heating-dominated climates. Your specific savings depend on:
Current air leakage severity
Heating fuel costs in your area
Climate zone (heating degree days)
Overall home airtightness
One documented example: A weatherization program in the Northeast reported average door sealing costs of $47 per door and average first-year savings of $63 per door in homes heated with natural gas. The economics improve in colder climates and with more expensive heating fuels (propane, electric resistance, oil).
Alternative Solutions for Specific Situations
Standard weatherstripping doesn't work for every scenario.
Sliding glass doors require specialized track sealing and compression weatherstripping along the vertical edges. The most common problem: dirty or damaged tracks preventing proper closure. Clean tracks thoroughly before adding weatherstripping.
Sliding door weatherization kits ($20-40) include both compression seal for the meeting stile and pile weatherstripping for top and bottom tracks. These reduce air infiltration by 40-60% in field testing.
French doors present challenges because both doors must seal to each other and to the frame. Astragal weatherstripping (the seal between the two doors) is critical. Use compression gasket astragals rather than simple foam strips—they maintain better contact as doors age.
Steel and fiberglass doors often arrive with factory-installed magnetic weatherstripping. If this fails, replacement magnetic weatherstripping is available through door manufacturers. Avoid substituting non-magnetic weatherstripping on doors designed for magnetic seals—you'll get inferior results.
Historic doors may not accommodate modern weatherstripping without modification that damages historic fabric. Consult preservation specialists before altering historic doors. Temporary measures (storm doors, draft stoppers) often provide the only appropriate solution.
Maintenance Requirements
Weatherstripping isn't install-and-forget. Regular maintenance extends lifespan and maintains effectiveness.
Annual inspection schedule:
Early fall: Inspect all weatherstripping for compression, tears, or gaps
Replace any damaged sections before heating season begins
Clean weatherstripping with mild soap and water to remove dirt and oils that reduce effectiveness
Check door sweep for wear—replace if the seal is visibly thin or damaged
Verify door closure and adjust hinges if gaps have developed
Threshold maintenance: Keep thresholds clean and free of debris. Sand, dirt, and salt accelerate weatherstripping wear. A quick sweep before closing exterior doors significantly extends weatherstripping life.
UV protection: Weatherstripping on south-facing doors degrades faster due to UV exposure. Consider storm doors or door awnings for heavily sun-exposed entries.
Field data from weatherization programs shows that maintained weatherstripping lasts 60-80% longer than unmaintained installations. The annual inspection takes about 10 minutes per door and catches problems before they become expensive.
What Doesn't Work (Despite Marketing Claims)
Some products marketed for draft sealing deliver questionable results.
Spray foam for door gaps. Several products market spray foam specifically for filling gaps around closed doors. These create semi-permanent seals that make the door difficult or impossible to open. Fine for seasonal sealing of unused doors, problematic for any door you'll open regularly.
Brush weatherstripping for door bottoms. The bristle-type sweeps look effective but testing shows they're less effective than rubber or vinyl blade sweeps for blocking air infiltration. Bristles compress unevenly and create bypass channels. They're better for blocking insects than air.
Thermal imagery detection apps. Smartphone apps claiming to show heat loss through thermal imaging don't have the sensor resolution of actual thermal cameras. They're essentially useless for diagnostic purposes. If you want thermal imaging, rent or borrow an actual thermal camera (FLIR or similar).
One-size-fits-all weatherstripping kits. The "universal fit" kits at big box stores rarely fit doors well. Measure your specific gaps and buy appropriately-sized weatherstripping rather than trying to make universal products work.
Professional vs. DIY: When to Call for Help
Most door weatherization is genuinely DIY-appropriate. However, some situations warrant professional assistance:
Call a professional if:
The door frame is damaged, rotted, or pulling away from the wall
The door is severely warped (beyond 1/4" out of plane)
You've installed weatherstripping correctly but still have significant drafts (suggests frame or wall cavity issues)
The door is historic and requires preservation-sensitive treatment
Multiple attempts at weatherstripping have failed
Professional weatherization services typically cost $150-400 per door including labor and materials. This is expensive relative to DIY, but professionals can address underlying problems that DIY efforts can't fix.
Many utility companies offer subsidized weatherization services through their energy efficiency programs. Check with your utility provider—you might qualify for free or low-cost professional weatherization.
Beyond the Door: Integrated Weatherization Strategy
Sealing doors makes the most sense as part of a comprehensive approach.
Windows, doors, and skylights can account for up to 35% of total house heat loss. Sealing doors without addressing windows leaves significant leakage paths. Department of Energy evaluations show that comprehensive whole-home weatherization saves households an average of $372 annually.
Priority areas beyond doors:
Attic access hatches (often overlooked despite massive air leakage)
Window weatherstripping (similar products and techniques as doors)
Dryer vent dampers (prevent backdraft when dryer isn't running)
Fireplace dampers (chimney is essentially a large hole in your roof)
Penetrations for utilities (pipes, wires, vents entering/leaving home)
The most cost-effective sequence: start with the largest, easiest air leaks first. That's typically the attic access, exterior doors, and operable windows. Then address smaller penetrations.
Common Installation Errors to Avoid
Based on troubleshooting hundreds of failed weatherization attempts, these errors occur frequently:
Installing weatherstripping in cold weather. Adhesive-backed products don't stick well below 50°F. The adhesive appears to bond initially but fails within days. Wait for warmer weather or bring weatherstripping materials indoors to reach room temperature before installation.
Not cleaning surfaces properly. Oil, dirt, and old adhesive residue prevent new weatherstripping from bonding. Use isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean surfaces—avoid oily cleaners that leave residue.
Over-compressing weatherstripping. Weatherstripping needs some compression to seal effectively, but too much compression causes premature failure. Follow manufacturer specifications—typically 10-25% compression for foam products, 20-40% for pile products.
Ignoring door geometry. Doors aren't perfectly flat and frames aren't perfectly square. Rigid weatherstripping materials can't accommodate these variations. Use conformable materials (foam, flexible rubber) on doors with irregular gaps.
Installing door sweeps too tightly. The sweep should drag lightly on the threshold—not create significant resistance. If you have to force the door closed, the sweep is too tight and will wear out quickly.
Take Action: Stop Losing Money Through Your Doors
You've got the information. Now it's time to actually fix those drafts.
For routine weatherization (most homes): Start with quality EPDM weatherstripping around your door frame and a properly-fitted door sweep at the bottom. This combination costs $30-60 per door, takes 2-4 hours to install, and delivers 5-10 years of reliable performance. It's the proven, cost-effective solution that weatherization professionals recommend.
For homes in flood-prone areas: If you live in a region that faces both cold winters AND flood risk, consider keeping FloodTape® on hand as a dual-purpose emergency tool. While it's engineered primarily for emergency flood protection—creating watertight seals during flood events—it can also serve as a temporary door seal during extreme cold periods. One roll provides both flood emergency protection and optional winter draft sealing for seasonal-use doors.
Get started today:
Run the smoke pencil test to identify your worst leaks
Measure your door gaps accurately before buying materials
Choose weatherstripping appropriate to your door type and usage
Install during moderate weather (above 50°F) for best adhesion
Schedule annual inspections each fall to maintain effectiveness
The $35-70 you invest in proper door weatherization typically pays for itself within 4-18 months through reduced heating costs. After that, you're banking $40-120 annually in savings while enjoying a more comfortable, draft-free home.
Don't let another heating season pass while cold air (and your money) flows freely under your doors. Take action now—your future heating bills will thank you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is cold air coming under my door even after weatherstripping?
If you've installed weatherstripping correctly and still feel drafts, check three things: (1) Is the weatherstripping compressed enough when the door closes? Many installations leave too much gap. (2) Are there air leaks around the door frame itself, bypassing the weatherstripping entirely? Check by removing interior trim and testing with a smoke pencil. (3) Is the door closing fully and latching firmly? Loose hinges or misaligned strike plates prevent proper weatherstripping contact.
What's the best type of weatherstripping for exterior doors?
For exterior doors, EPDM rubber weatherstripping provides the best balance of durability, temperature resistance, and effectiveness. It outlasts foam tape by 5-7 years, maintains flexibility in temperature extremes from -40°F to 250°F, and resists UV degradation. Budget alternative: V-strip weatherstripping in stainless steel provides similar longevity at comparable cost but requires more precise installation.
How much money will weatherstripping actually save on heating bills?
Realistic savings for sealing one drafty exterior door range from $40-120 annually, depending on your climate, heating fuel costs, and the severity of the original air leakage. With materials costing $35-70, payback occurs within 4-18 months. The Department of Energy's frequently cited "20% reduction" figure reflects comprehensive whole-house air sealing, not individual door weatherization. Expect 3-8% reduction in total heating costs per sealed exterior door.
Should I use a door sweep or weatherstripping or both?
Use both for optimal results. Weatherstripping seals the top and sides of the door frame while the door sweep specifically addresses the bottom gap where most air leakage occurs. Installing weatherstripping without a door sweep leaves the largest leak path unsealed. Together, they create a complete air barrier around the door perimeter. Typical cost for both: $30-60 in materials.
How long does door weatherstripping last before replacement?
Lifespan varies significantly by product type: adhesive foam tape lasts 1-3 years, V-strip weatherstripping lasts 5-10 years, and EPDM rubber weatherstripping lasts 7-12 years. Door sweeps typically need replacement every 3-5 years. Lifespan depends on door usage frequency, UV exposure, and maintenance. Annual inspection and cleaning can extend weatherstripping life by 60-80% according to weatherization program data.
Can I weatherstrip a door temporarily just for winter?
Yes, temporary sealing works well for doors used infrequently during winter months. Use removable rope caulk (press into gaps in fall, peel off in spring) or door snakes that you place when needed. For doors in flood-prone areas, waterproof sealing tape designed for emergency flood barriers can provide temporary winter sealing with clean removal. For frequently-used doors, permanent weatherstripping is more practical—you won't want to remove and reinstall temporary seals daily.
Will weatherstripping work if my door is warped?
Minor warping (up to 1/4") can be compensated with thick, compressible weatherstripping materials like foam tape or bulb-type rubber gaskets. Beyond 1/4" warping, weatherstripping alone won't create an effective seal. Options include: planing the door edge to reduce warping, shimming hinges to tilt the door into better alignment, or replacing the door. Many weatherization professionals recommend door replacement once warping exceeds 3/8".
Do door sweeps damage hardwood floors or thresholds?
Quality door sweeps with nylon or vinyl fins won't damage floors when installed correctly. The sweep should drag lightly—just enough pressure to seal without creating friction that gouges surfaces. Avoid metal-edged sweeps on finished floors. For high-wear situations, automatic door sweeps lift when the door opens, eliminating floor contact during use. Expect to replace door sweeps every 3-5 years as the seal material wears.
Works Cited
[1] HouseLogic — "Fix Air Leaks Around Windows | Stopping Door Air Leaks." https://www.houselogic.com/organize-maintain/home-maintenance-tips/seal-air-leaks-around-windows-and-doors/. Published: 2021-06-21. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[2] ReEnergize Co — "How to Fix a Drafty Door: Blocking Door Drafts for Good." https://reenergizeco.com/drafty-entryways-weatherstrip-your-doors/. Published: 2023-08-15. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[3] Natural Resources Canada — "Keeping The Heat In - Section 8: Upgrading windows and exterior doors." https://natural-resources.canada.ca/energy-efficiency/home-energy-efficiency/keeping-heat-section-8-upgrading-windows-exterior-doors. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[4] Mr. Handyman — "Weatherstripping Doors Increase Home Energy Efficiency." https://www.mrhandyman.com/blog/2011/december/weatherstripping-doors-increase-home-energy-efficiency/. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[5] Masonite — "Front Door Impacts Energy Efficiency." https://www.masonite.com/discover-and-learn/front-door-impacts-energy-efficiency/. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[6] U.S. Department of Energy — "Weatherization Assistance Program." https://www.energy.gov/scep/wap/weatherization-assistance-program. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[7] U.S. Department of Energy — "Weatherstripping." https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherstripping. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[8] American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy — "Estimating the Impacts of Weatherization Readiness Programs." https://www.aceee.org/research-report/b2504. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[9] This Old House — "Easy Fixes for Drafty Windows and Doors." https://www.thisoldhouse.com/insulation/21097133/easy-fixes-for-drafty-windows-and-doors. Published: 2025-05-05. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[10] Glass Doctor — "How to Keep Cold Air from Coming Through Windows and Doors." https://glassdoctor.com/expert-tips/all-about-window-glass/how-to-keep-cold-air-from-coming-through-windows. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[11] U.S. Department of Energy — "Air Sealing Your Home." https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/air-sealing-your-home. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[12] Building Calculators — "Door Gap Leakage Calculator." https://www.buildingcalculators.com/door-gap-leakage-calculator. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[13] Northern Built — "An Airtight Home: What Do the Blower Door Numbers Mean?" https://www.northernbuilt.pro/an-airtight-home-what-do-the-blower-door-numbers-mean/. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[14] Alliance to Save Energy — "Weatherization Works: Smart Investment in Energy Efficiency and Cost Savings." https://www.ase.org/blog/weatherization-smart-investment-energy-efficiency-and-cost-savings. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
[15] Energy Smart Ohio — "What Does a Blower Door Air Leakage Number Mean?" https://energysmartohio.com/uncategorized/what-does-a-blower-door-air-leakage-number-mean/. Accessed: 2025-11-21.
Comments