RV Winter Storage: How to Prevent the Moisture Damage That Costs Thousands

You open your RV after winter storage. That smell hits you immediately—musty, wrong, expensive.

I learned this lesson the hard way in 2015. My first winter storing our Class C motorhome, I thought closing everything up tight made sense. Keep the cold out, right?

Wrong. I opened it in April to find black mold creeping across the bedroom ceiling and water stains running down the wall behind our dinette. The repair bill was just over $4,000, and I spent two weeks doing the work myself to avoid paying the $7,500 the shop quoted.

That mistake taught me everything I'm about to share with you. After 12 years of full-time RV living and helping other owners through RV forums and campground conversations, I've seen this same scenario play out dozens of times. The costs vary—I've heard stories ranging from $1,800 for minor mold remediation to $11,000 for major delamination repairs—but the cause is almost always the same: moisture getting in where it shouldn't, combined with inadequate ventilation.

The good news? Most moisture damage during RV winter storage is completely preventable with proper preparation. You don't need expensive equipment or professional help. Just some basic supplies, a few hours of prep work, and knowledge of what actually matters.

Why RV Winter Storage Creates Perfect Conditions for Moisture Damage

Here's what happens when your RV sits unused through winter.

Temperature fluctuates. Your RV gets cold overnight, then the sun hits it during the day. The exterior warms up while the interior stays cold. Physics takes over—warm air holds more moisture than cold air, so when that warm exterior air meets your cold interior surfaces, water condenses out of the air onto windows, walls, and ceilings.

That's condensation, and some amount is unavoidable without climate control.

But the real problem is bulk water intrusion. Rain finding tiny gaps in weatherstripping. Snow accumulating on roof seams and melting into vents. Ice forming at door thresholds and forcing its way through seals.

According to the National RV Inspectors Association, water intrusion represents the most common and expensive category of RV damage, with moisture-related repairs typically costing $2,000 to $8,000 depending on how long the problem goes undetected. The organization notes that "even small amounts of water intrusion can lead to structural damage" as water migrates into wall cavities, under flooring, and behind cabinetry.

Most people focus on obvious maintenance—roof condition, tire pressure, battery care. Those matter, absolutely. But the #1 preventable cause of storage damage is seal failures that allow continuous moisture entry over months.

Think about the math. A gap under your entry door that's only 1/8 inch wide doesn't look like much. But if water seeps through even once during each winter storm—maybe a dozen times over six months—you're potentially dealing with cups or even quarts of water accumulating inside your RV with nowhere to go.

The Pre-Storage Inspection That Finds Problems Before They Cost Money

Before sealing anything, find what needs attention.

Walk completely around your RV with a critical eye. Every door, every hatch, every access panel. I'm not talking about a quick glance—actually get close and inspect.

Entry and baggage doors: Open each one, then close it slowly while watching the gap around the entire perimeter. Look for:

• Daylight showing through when it's closed

• Weatherstripping compressed completely flat that doesn't spring back

• Gaps at the top corners (super common as RVs settle and shift)

• Thresholds where the rubber seal is worn thin from foot traffic

  
  

Here's a test that works: Close the door. Can you slide a dollar bill through and pull it out without any resistance? If yes, your seal isn't tight enough for RV winter storage.

Roof vents and hatches: Get on the roof—yes, I know it's not fun, but this matters. Check gaskets around each vent opening. Press on them with your finger. They should feel soft and pliable, not hard and cracked. If pressing creates visible cracks or the rubber feels brittle, it's not sealing anymore and needs replacement before storage.

Slide-outs (if equipped): Extend them fully. Walk around the entire perimeter examining those rubber seals. Common failure points to check:

• Bottom seals near corners (these collect dirt and wear fastest)

• Top seals on the RV body side (these dry out from sun exposure)

• Any section where the seal has pulled away from its mounting channel

  
  

One diagnostic trick from my RV technician friend Mike at Desert Sun RV Service in Tucson: After closing everything up, turn on a bright LED flashlight inside your RV at dusk and have someone walk around outside looking for light leaks. Any spot where light escapes, moisture can enter. Mark these areas with masking tape so you remember to address them during preparation.

You'll probably find more issues than you expected. Don't stress—most are easy and inexpensive to fix.

Clean First, Seal Second (Or Waste Your Money)

This is where people mess up constantly, myself included when I started.

You cannot get good seals on dirty surfaces. Period.

Adhesive weatherstripping, specialized tapes, caulk—none of it bonds properly to dirt, oxidation, or old adhesive residue. I've wasted probably $200 over the years on weatherstripping that failed within weeks because I rushed the cleaning step.

Start by washing your entire RV. Not just a rinse, but a proper wash with automotive soap. Pay extra attention to door frames, window surrounds, and vent housings—these areas collect road film and grime that prevents proper sealing.

For surfaces you plan to seal, go further. After washing and drying completely, wipe them down with denatured alcohol on a clean rag. This removes oils and ensures maximum adhesion for whatever sealing method you use.

Let everything dry completely. If you're in a hurry, a leaf blower works great for getting water out of crevices and recessed areas. I learned this watching a detail shop work—seems obvious now, but it wasn't when I was starting out.

Surface temperature matters too. Most adhesive weatherstripping needs temperatures above 50°F to bond properly. If you're doing this prep work when it's colder, bring weatherstripping materials inside to warm up, and work on the sunny side of your RV where surfaces are warmest.

RV Door Sealing Options: What Works for Winter Storage

Different entry points need different approaches. Let me break down what actually works based on testing various methods over multiple storage seasons.

Entry Doors and Thresholds

Your main door is both the most important seal and usually the most compromised because it sees constant use.

Standard foam weatherstripping ($8-15 per door) works fine if your door closes well and gaps are consistent and small. Look for closed-cell foam labeled EPDM or neoprene, not cheap open-cell foam that compresses permanently. The Department of Energy recommends closed-cell foam for exterior applications because it maintains better performance in temperature extremes.

Installation takes about 30 minutes—clean the surface, cut to length, peel and stick. Apply it when surfaces are at least 50°F.

Downside: Foam typically lasts only 1-3 years before needing replacement. It also doesn't work well if your door has alignment issues creating uneven gaps.

V-strip weatherstripping (also called tension seal, $12-20 per door) lasts much longer—typically 5-7 years. It's a folded strip of metal or plastic that creates spring tension for a better seal. Professional weatherization programs typically specify V-strip or similar products for durability.

Installation is trickier because sizing matters. The V must fit your specific gap width (usually 1/8" to 3/16"). Too tight makes the door hard to close; too loose fails to seal. Measure your actual gaps before buying. But once it's installed correctly, it's reliable through multiple seasons.

Rubber bulb weatherstripping ($15-25 per door, lasting 5-7 years) creates the best seal on doors with slight alignment issues. The hollow rubber bulb compresses to fill irregular gaps. Works great on older RVs where doors have settled and don't close perfectly square anymore.

For the threshold specifically—that bottom seal where your door meets the floor—you need a door sweep if you don't already have one. Quality sweeps cost $20-35 and make a dramatic difference. They attach to the bottom of the door and drag lightly on the threshold, blocking the biggest air and moisture entry point on most RVs.

FloodTape® for critical sealing applications: For RVs stored in flood-prone areas or those with persistent moisture problems around entry doors, FloodTape® offers a specialized solution. Originally designed for emergency flood protection, this waterproof sealing tape creates an exceptionally tight moisture barrier when applied around door frames and thresholds.

The 8-inch wide double-sided tape bonds to both the door frame and door surface, creating a watertight seal that standard weatherstripping can't match. This is particularly valuable if:

• Your RV is stored in areas prone to heavy snow accumulation or winter flooding

• You've had moisture intrusion problems in previous storage seasons

• Your door has alignment issues that make standard weatherstripping ineffective

• You want maximum protection for a high-value RV

  
  

Important context: This is an off-label application—FloodTape® was engineered for emergency flood barriers during severe weather events. However, many RV owners have successfully used it for seasonal storage sealing because it offers two key advantages: superior moisture blocking compared to standard weatherstripping, and clean removal in spring without residue or paint damage.

Application for RV winter storage:

1. Clean and dry the door frame and threshold thoroughly

2. Ensure surface temperature is above 50°F for proper adhesion

3. Measure and cut tape to fit your door perimeter

4. Apply along the inside of the door frame where it meets the door when closed

5. Press firmly for complete contact with both surfaces

6. When spring arrives, remove slowly at a 45-degree angle

   
   

Cost consideration: FloodTape® typically costs $40-50 per 20-foot roll—significantly more than standard weatherstripping ($8-25). The value proposition makes sense if you need maximum moisture protection or have experienced water damage previously. For routine storage in dry climates with well-maintained door seals, standard weatherstripping provides adequate protection at lower cost.

Real talk from experience: Most people do fine with good quality foam or V-strip weatherstripping for RV winter storage. FloodTape® represents a premium option for situations where you need absolute moisture protection—think of it as insurance against the worst-case scenario. I use standard weatherstripping on most of my RV, but I do use FloodTape® on the main entry door threshold because that's where I had my $4,000 failure back in 2015.

Roof Vents and Hatches for RV Winter Storage

Factory vent covers can close, but they're not perfectly sealed. For long-term storage, add a secondary moisture barrier.

Cut rigid foam insulation board to fit inside each vent opening. The pink or blue foam board from hardware stores works great—costs about $15-20 for a 4'x8' sheet that'll handle all your vents. Cut pieces slightly oversized so they wedge in snugly without gaps.

Seal the edges with removable weatherstripping or run a bead of rope caulk ($3-6 per 90-foot roll) around the perimeter. Come spring, everything just pulls out—no permanent modifications.

For hatches that open (emergency exits, storage hatches), inspect existing gaskets carefully. If they're cracked or hardened, replace them now before winter storage. Replacement gaskets run $10-30 depending on hatch size and are available through RV parts suppliers.

If gaskets are still flexible, treat them with rubber conditioner ($12-20 per bottle) and they'll probably last another season. I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on all my rubber seals—it's what the RV service centers use.

One important note: Don't seal roof vents completely shut. We'll cover ventilation strategy next, but you need some controlled air movement even during storage.

Slide-Out Seals (Special Considerations)

Slide-outs present unique challenges for RV winter storage. You can't seal them shut because:

1. The mechanism needs to remain movable

2. You want periodic access to check on things inside

3. Completely sealing can trap moisture already present

   
   

Instead, focus on maintaining existing seals. Get a slide-out seal conditioner (basically a rubber treatment that keeps gaskets flexible through temperature extremes). One bottle costs $12-20 and handles multiple applications.

Apply it following directions—usually a thin coat worked into the rubber with a clean cloth—before storage. This prevents seals from hardening and cracking over winter, which is how most slide-out seal failures start.

If you've got a known problem area—maybe one corner that always leaks slightly—you can add temporary sealing just over that specific section. Just mark it clearly with tape so you remember to remove it before extending the slide-out come spring. I've heard multiple stories about people forgetting and damaging their slide mechanisms. Learn from their expensive mistakes.

The Ventilation Balance: Getting This Right Matters More Than You Think

You need to prevent bulk water intrusion through doors and hatches. We've covered that.

But you also need air circulation to prevent condensation buildup inside.

These seem contradictory, but the solution is strategic ventilation—preventing water entry while allowing controlled air exchange.

Position roof vents with quality vent covers—brands like MaxxAir or Fan-Tastic that are designed to shed rain while allowing airflow—at opposite ends of your RV. Leave them cracked open about 1-2 inches. This positioning creates cross-ventilation: air enters one end, moves through the RV, and exits the other end.

This allows humid air to escape while preventing bulk water entry during rain or snow. It's the sweet spot that took me three storage seasons to figure out properly.

Moisture absorbers throughout the interior: Place desiccant moisture absorber products like DampRid in strategic locations. These cost about $6-8 per container. Use roughly one container per 20-30 square feet of floor space.

For a typical 30-foot travel trailer or Class C motorhome, that's usually 5-7 containers placed in the bedroom, bathroom, kitchen area, and near any problem spots you've identified.

Check these monthly during your storage inspections. If they're filling up with water quickly, you need more ventilation. If they've barely absorbed anything after a month, your ventilation strategy is working.

Some RV owners use dehumidifiers if they have electrical hookups at their storage location. Small portable electric units cost $35-60 and can run continuously. You'll need to empty the collection bucket weekly or set up a continuous drain hose. For high-value Class A motorhomes or fifth wheels, this active moisture removal might be worth the effort and electricity cost.

Personal observation after storing RVs in Arizona, Oregon, and Montana: Most moisture problems I've encountered came from over-sealing, not under-sealing. People get paranoid about water intrusion and create a sealed box where condensation goes wild. Don't make that mistake—controlled ventilation is your friend during RV winter storage.

Complete RV Winter Storage Checklist (Beyond Moisture Sealing)

Sealing against moisture is critical, but it's part of a comprehensive winterization process. Here's the complete checklist I follow:

Plumbing system winterization:

• Drain all holding tanks completely (fresh, gray, black)

• Blow out water lines with compressed air (30-40 PSI max)

• Fill system with RV antifreeze—the pink stuff, not automotive antifreeze

• Pour antifreeze down all drains and into toilet bowl

• Don't forget the outdoor shower and water heater if equipped

  
  

Electrical system:

• Remove batteries and store indoors or connect to a quality maintainer

• Turn off all breakers at the panel

• Unplug any devices that could draw phantom power

• Disconnect solar panels if your controller doesn't have proper storage mode

  
  

Interior preparation:

• Remove ALL food including spices, coffee, tea—mice will find anything

• Leave cabinet doors and drawers slightly open for air circulation

• Remove valuables, important documents, and electronics

• Pull cushions off furniture to allow airflow underneath

• Set multiple snap-style mouse traps (not poison, which causes them to die inside walls)

  
  

Exterior maintenance:

• Wash and wax entire exterior to protect paint and fiberglass

• Cover tires with UV-protection tire covers

• Inflate tires to maximum cold pressure listed on sidewall

• Treat all rubber seals with conditioner or UV protectant

• Clean and treat awning with appropriate cleaner (mold prevention)

  
  

Documentation:

• Make a list of any repairs needed and tape it somewhere visible inside

• Take photos of your seal setup so you remember what to remove

• Leave contact information visible if storage facility needs to reach you

• Update insurance company if required for long-term storage

  
  

That seems like a lot. It is. Budget 3-4 hours for thorough preparation. But compare that time investment to potentially spending thousands on repairs and dealing with weeks of restoration work.

What Doesn't Work for RV Winter Storage (Learn from My Mistakes)

Some popular advice is actually terrible. Let me save you from these costly errors.

Complete shrink-wrapping without proper ventilation: Shrink wrap creates a waterproof barrier, which sounds perfect for RV winter storage. It also traps every bit of moisture already inside, creating ideal conditions for mold growth.

If you do shrink wrap (and many northern RV owners do), you must include proper ventilation vents designed specifically for this purpose—not just random holes you poke. Professional shrink wrap with ventilation costs $300-600. The cheap DIY approach without proper vents creates more problems than it solves.

Cheap tarps as RV covers: Budget tarps deteriorate quickly in UV, flap in wind (causing paint damage through constant abrasion), and usually trap moisture rather than shedding it effectively.

If you're covering your RV, spend money on a proper breathable cover designed for your specific RV type and size. Quality RV covers run $200-600 depending on size. Or don't cover it at all—uncovered storage is genuinely better than poorly covered storage.

Ignoring small problems: That tiny crack in a window seal? That corner of weatherstripping that's pulled slightly loose? Those become major moisture entry points over six months of storage.

I ignored a small gap around my baggage door in 2017 because "it's just exterior storage." That spring I found water damage to the wall behind that compartment that cost $800 to repair properly. Address problems before storage, not after damage occurs.

Following advice from people without real RV winter storage experience: There's a lot of theoretical knowledge online that doesn't match reality. Trust people who've actually stored RVs multiple times in real conditions and learned from actual mistakes (like me sharing what not to do based on expensive lessons).

Monthly RV Storage Inspections (20 Minutes That Prevent Disaster)

Don't just park it and forget it until spring. Plan monthly visits.

My quick inspection routine takes 20-30 minutes:

Exterior walk-around:

• Look for any obvious damage, falling tree branches, animal activity

• Check tire condition and pressure (adjust for temperature changes)

• Verify cover is still secure if you're using one

• Look for any signs of forced entry or vandalism

  
  

Seal inspection:

• Check all temporary sealing—look for tape peeling or gaps opening

• Verify roof vent foam inserts are still in place

• Make sure door sweeps haven't shifted

  
  

Interior check:

• Go inside and do immediate smell test (mustiness indicates problems)

• Replace moisture absorber containers if they're full or nearly full

• Look for water stains, dampness, or any signs of intrusion

• Check mouse traps and replace if needed

  
  

System maintenance:

• If temperatures are above freezing, run slide-outs in and out once

• Start generator for 30 minutes under load (run AC or microwave)

• Check battery maintainer is functioning properly

  
  

These monthly visits catch small problems before they become expensive disasters. Plus, if you're paying monthly storage fees, you're ensuring you're getting what you pay for and your RV is actually secure.

Real Cost Analysis: RV Winter Storage Preparation vs. Repairs

What does proper preparation actually cost compared to what it saves?

Basic DIY approach:

• Quality weatherstripping for doors and hatches: $25-50

• Rubber seal conditioner: $12-20

• Moisture absorbers for 6-month season: $40-80

• Door sweep if needed: $15-25

• Cleaning and prep supplies: $15-25

• RV antifreeze (2-3 gallons): $15-30

• Total: $125-230

  
  

Premium approach with maximum protection:

• Professional-grade weatherstripping: $40-80

• FloodTape® for critical door sealing: $40-100 (1-2 rolls)

• Rubber seal conditioner and UV protectant: $30-50

• Solar-powered ventilation fan: $80-150

• Advanced moisture control system: $50-100

• Battery maintainer: $50-100

• Total: $290-580

  
  

Professional winterization service:

• Most RV service centers charge $150-350 for complete winterization

• Add $100-200 if you want them to handle sealing and moisture prep

• Total professional service: $250-550

  
  

Compare these preparation costs to moisture damage repairs:

• Minor mold remediation: $500-1,500

• Floor replacement (one area): $1,000-3,000

• Wall delamination repair: $2,000-5,000

• Major structural water damage: $5,000-15,000

• Complete interior restoration: $8,000-20,000+

  
  

Even the premium DIY approach with FloodTape® costs less than minor mold remediation. And if proper RV winter storage preparation prevents one major repair over your RV's lifetime, it's paid for itself many times over.

I spent $4,000 learning this lesson. You can spend $125-580 and avoid it entirely.

Regional Differences in RV Winter Storage Strategy

Where you store your RV significantly affects your approach.

Northern climates (freeze-thaw cycles): Seals need to stay flexible in extreme cold. Standard rubber becomes brittle below 0°F. Look for weatherstripping specifically rated for cold weather applications—usually silicone-based or special EPDM formulations rated to -40°F.

The freeze-thaw cycle also creates ice buildup and expansion issues. Make sure sealing methods allow drainage pathways so melting ice doesn't pool against doors and hatches. I learned this storing in Montana—ice forming at the door threshold can actually force seals apart if there's nowhere for meltwater to drain.

For RVs stored in severe winter climates with heavy snow, FloodTape® provides an extra layer of protection at critical entry points where snow accumulation creates the highest risk of melt intrusion.

Humid coastal areas: Moisture is constant year-round. Aggressive ventilation becomes absolutely essential. Consider battery-powered or solar ventilation fans that run continuously throughout storage. Marine-grade mold inhibitors inside the RV help control growth.

Check moisture absorbers every 2-3 weeks instead of monthly—they'll fill faster in humid environments. One RV owner I know in coastal South Carolina replaces his DampRid containers every 10-14 days during winter storage.

Arid desert climates (where I store now): UV degradation happens fast here in Arizona. Before storage, treat all rubber seals with UV protectant rated for harsh sun exposure. The good news—moisture is much less of a concern, so you can seal more aggressively without as much ventilation worry.

The bad news—rubber seals deteriorate faster and need more frequent replacement. I replace weatherstripping and gaskets twice as often here as I did in Oregon.

Adapt these strategies to your specific climate zone. What works perfectly in Florida can fail dramatically in Minnesota.

Spring: Opening Your RV After Winter Storage

Storage season ends. Time to open up your RV. Take this process seriously—rushing creates problems.

Remove temporary sealing slowly: Pull any tape or temporary seals at a 45-degree angle for easiest removal. If you encounter resistance, use a hair dryer on low heat to gently warm the adhesive—makes it release easier and virtually eliminates any risk of paint damage.

If you used FloodTape® around your entry door, removal is straightforward: warm the tape slightly with a hair dryer if needed, then pull slowly at a 45-degree angle. The tape should release cleanly without leaving residue. This is one of FloodTape's key advantages over permanent caulking or lower-quality tapes that can damage paint upon removal.

Inspect your work: This is your quality assessment. Did moisture get past your defenses anywhere? If so, note exactly where so you can improve your RV winter storage strategy next season.

Walk through and look for evidence of problems:

• Water stains on walls, ceiling, or around windows

• Mold or mildew spots (check corners and under cushions)

• Musty smell concentrated in specific areas

• Delamination (wall panels pulling away from framing)

  
  

Finding minor issues now means you can address them before they worsen.

Air out thoroughly: Open all vents, windows, and doors. Turn on ventilation fans. Let the RV air out for several hours before using it or loading it back up. Even with perfect sealing, there's usually some mustiness from being closed up for months.

Check your moisture absorbers: Pull them all out and assess. If they're completely saturated, you needed better ventilation. If they barely absorbed anything, your strategy worked well. This feedback helps you optimize for next year's RV winter storage.

Final inspection: Check that you removed ALL temporary sealing before operating doors, hatches, or slide-outs. Forgetting to remove sealing from a slide-out before extending it can damage the mechanism—an expensive and avoidable mistake.

Your Step-by-Step RV Winter Storage Action Plan

Here's your timeline for preparation:

Six weeks before storage:

• Schedule time for thorough RV inspection

• Order any replacement weatherstripping, gaskets, or sealing products

• If you're using FloodTape®, order now to ensure you have it before storage

• Gather cleaning supplies and tools you'll need

  
  

Two weeks before storage:

• Complete deep cleaning of exterior and all seal areas

• Replace any worn weatherstripping or damaged gaskets

• Apply rubber conditioner to all seals

• Test all systems one final time before winterization

• Address any maintenance issues you've been postponing

  
  

Final week before storage:

• Complete plumbing winterization with antifreeze

• Apply weatherstripping and FloodTape® to doors and problem areas

• Place moisture absorbers throughout interior

• Remove batteries or connect to maintainers

• Complete final walk-through with your checklist

  
  

During storage (monthly):

• Visit for 20-30 minute inspection

• Replace moisture absorbers as needed

• Document any issues for spring attention

• Adjust ventilation if you notice condensation developing

• Run generator and exercise slide-outs when temps allow

  
  

Spring preparation:

• Remove FloodTape® and all temporary sealing carefully and slowly

• Air out thoroughly before first use (several hours minimum)

• Inspect for any moisture damage that occurred

• Note improvements needed for next winter's RV storage preparation

  
  

The difference between RVs that need expensive repairs every few years versus ones that provide decades of reliable service often comes down to how seriously owners take off-season storage. Moisture damage compounds over time—minor mildew becomes structural rot if neglected.

Protect Your RV Investment: Take Action Now

If your RV is heading into storage soon, invest one weekend in proper preparation. Your future self—and your bank account—will thank you.

The cost comparison is straightforward:

• Basic protection: $125-230 in materials and 3-4 hours of work

• Premium protection with FloodTape®: $290-580 for maximum moisture defense

• Moisture damage repairs: $2,000-8,000+ and weeks of disruption

  
  

Those aren't theoretical numbers. They're real costs that real RV owners pay every year because they didn't take winter storage preparation seriously enough.

Walk around your RV this weekend. Find the weak points in your seals. Identify areas where you've had moisture issues before or where risk is highest. Order the supplies you need—standard weatherstripping for most applications, FloodTape® for critical high-risk areas like entry doors and known problem spots.

Block out time next weekend to do the work properly. Clean all surfaces thoroughly. Apply weatherstripping and sealing products when temperatures are appropriate. Set up your moisture control and ventilation strategy.

Your spring self will thank you when you open that door to fresh air instead of mold and water stains. Your bank account will thank you when you're not writing $5,000 checks to RV repair shops. And you'll sleep better this winter knowing your investment is protected against the moisture damage that destroys thousands of RVs every storage season.

By following the right RV winter storage practices, you prevent mold, water intrusion, and structural damage.

Ready to protect your RV? Get FloodTape® for your winter storage preparation →

Don't learn this the expensive way like I did. Start preparing now, while there's still time to do it right.

Frequently Asked Questions About RV Winter Storage

How cold is too cold for RV winter storage without heat?

RVs can be stored safely in any temperature as long as plumbing is properly winterized with RV antifreeze. The critical concern isn't cold itself but freeze-thaw cycles that cause expansion damage. Ensure all water is removed from tanks and lines, then add RV antifreeze to prevent freeze damage to pumps and fixtures. Seal rubber components may become brittle below -20°F, so inspect and replace weatherstripping rated for extreme cold if storing in harsh winter climates. For severe conditions, consider using FloodTape® on entry doors as it maintains adhesion and sealing properties in extreme cold.

Should I use foam weatherstripping or FloodTape® for RV storage?

For routine RV winter storage in normal conditions, quality closed-cell foam weatherstripping ($8-15) works fine if doors close properly. V-strip or rubber bulb weatherstripping ($12-25) offers better longevity (5-7 years vs 1-3 years). FloodTape® ($40-50 per roll) makes sense for specific situations: RVs stored in flood-prone areas, those with previous moisture damage, doors with alignment issues standard weatherstripping can't seal, or when you want maximum moisture protection for high-value RVs. Many owners use standard weatherstripping on most doors but FloodTape® on the main entry door threshold where risk is highest.

How often should I check my RV during winter storage?

Monthly inspections are recommended for RV winter storage. Each visit should take 20-30 minutes checking exterior condition, verifying seals remain intact (including FloodTape® if used), replacing moisture absorbers, looking for water stains inside, and running the generator briefly. Monthly visits catch problems like compromised seals or moisture intrusion early—mold can establish within 48-72 hours of water intrusion, so waiting until spring to discover issues means significantly more damage and higher repair costs.

What causes slide-out seals to fail during winter storage?

Slide-out seal failure during RV winter storage typically results from UV exposure drying and cracking rubber, extreme temperature cycling causing hardening, dirt accumulation creating abrasion, and normal compression fatigue. Before storage, clean seals thoroughly and apply rubber conditioner to maintain flexibility through temperature extremes. Replace seals showing cracks, permanent compression that doesn't spring back, or visible gaps when slide-out is retracted—waiting until complete failure allows water intrusion damaging slide mechanisms and wall structures.

Can I prevent all condensation during RV storage?

No, you cannot eliminate condensation entirely during RV winter storage because temperature differentials naturally create it. However, you can prevent bulk water intrusion through doors sealed with weatherstripping or FloodTape®, windows, and vents while managing internal humidity with absorbers and strategic ventilation. The goal is controlling moisture to levels that won't cause mold growth or material damage (below 60% relative humidity), not achieving zero moisture which is impossible without climate control.

Should RV tires touch the ground during winter storage?

Yes, tires should remain on the ground with weight on them during RV winter storage, but inflate to maximum cold pressure listed on sidewalls and use UV-protection tire covers. Fully jacking an RV creates suspension stress and stability issues. For storage exceeding six months, consider tire cradles that slightly lift tires to prevent flat spots while maintaining vehicle stability. Check and adjust tire pressure monthly as temperature changes significantly affect pressure.

Is FloodTape® reusable for multiple storage seasons?

FloodTape® is designed as a single-use product for each application. While the tape maintains its waterproof properties during one storage season, removal compromises the adhesive backing. For each winter storage preparation, use fresh FloodTape® to ensure maximum adhesion and sealing effectiveness. The cost of new tape ($40-50 annually) is minimal compared to potential moisture damage repairs ($2,000-8,000+), making it worthwhile to use fresh product each season for critical sealing applications.

About the Author

Written by: James Mitchell, Full-Time RVer and RV Maintenance Specialist

I've been living full-time in RVs since 2013, traveling across 47 states and storing RVs through winters in climates ranging from Montana's sub-zero temperatures to Arizona's desert heat. After learning about moisture damage the expensive way (a $4,000 repair bill in 2015), I became obsessed with proper RV winter storage techniques and have helped hundreds of fellow RVers through forum discussions and in-person consultations at campgrounds.

This guide draws from 12 years of personal experience, consultations with RV technicians like Mike Anderson at Desert Sun RV Service in Tucson, and research into moisture prevention practices recommended by the RV Industry Association and National RV Inspectors Association. All cost estimates reflect current market rates as of 2025, and damage statistics come from insurance industry reports and documented repair costs.

Important Disclaimer: This article provides general educational information about RV winter storage and moisture prevention. Individual RVs have unique vulnerabilities based on age, construction, climate, and storage conditions. For RVs with persistent moisture problems, significant structural damage, or complex systems, consult certified RV technicians (RVIA or NRVIA certified) who can assess your specific situation. This guide does not replace professional assessment for your particular vehicle and circumstances.

Always prioritize safety when performing maintenance work on your RV. Use proper ladder safety when accessing roofs, ensure adequate ventilation when working with chemicals, and follow manufacturer guidelines for all products used.

Works Cited

[1] National RV Inspectors Association — "Identifying and Preventing Water Damage in RVs." https://nrvia.org/2025/01/how-to-avoid-buying-an-rv-with-water-damage/. Published: January 2025. 

[2] RV Industry Association — "RV Owner Demographics and Trends." https://www.rvia.org/reports-trends. 

[3] U.S. Department of Energy — "Weatherstripping Your Home." https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherstripping. 

[4] Texas RV Guys — "Complete Guide to DIY and Professional RV Delamination Repair." https://www.texasrvguys.com/blog/how-to-repair-delamination-on-rv-complete-guide-to-diy-and-professional-rv-delamination-repair/. 

[5] RV Love — "2 Years of RV Repairs and Service Costs." https://rvlove.com/planning/repairs-maintenance/2-years-of-rv-repairs-service-costs/. 

[6] Ocala Grand RV Sales — "RV Roof Repair Costs and Prevention." https://ogrvs.com/rv-roof-repair-cost/. 

[7] Elite RV Pros — "The Cost of Neglecting RV Roof Leaks: Long-Term Damage and Repair Costs." https://elitervpros.com/blog/the-cost-of-neglecting-rv-roof-leaks-long-term-damage-and-repair-costs/. 

[8] Extra Space Storage — "RV and Boat Winterization Tips." https://www.extraspace.com/blog/self-storage/vehicle-winterization-tips-how-to-winterize-a-boat/. 

[9] DampRid — "RV Moisture Control Products." https://damprid.com/rv-moisture-absorber/. 

[10] MaxxAir — "RV Vent Covers and Ventilation Systems." https://www.maxxair.com/products/covers/. 

[11] RecPro — "RV Slide Out Seals and Maintenance Guide." https://recpro.com/rv-slide-out-seals/. 

[12] Coach Specialists — "Should I Buy a Used Travel Trailer with Delamination? Advice from an RV Repair Shop." https://www.coachspecialists.com/blog/should-i-buy-a-used-travel-trailer-with-delamination-advice-from-an-rv-repair-shop/.