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Beyond Rising Water: How to Stop Wind-Driven Rain from Soaking Your Doors and Windows

  • Writer: Matthias Herzog
    Matthias Herzog
  • Dec 29, 2025
  • 13 min read

When most people think about hurricane damage, they picture floodwaters rising up from the ground. But here's what catches many homeowners off guard: the rain doesn't just fall straight down during a storm. It comes at you sideways.

Wind-driven rain is one of the sneakiest causes of water damage during hurricanes and severe storms. Those horizontal sheets of water find every gap around your doors and windows—gaps you probably never noticed existed. And once that water gets inside, it doesn't politely stay by the door. It spreads across floors, soaks into drywall, and creates the perfect conditions for mold to take hold.

The good news? You can actually do something about it. And you don't need a contractor or expensive permanent renovations to protect your home.

Why Wind-Driven Rain Is Different from Flooding

Standard flood preparation focuses on water coming from below—rising rivers, storm surge, or overwhelmed drainage systems. That's critical, of course. But wind-driven rain attacks from a completely different angle.

During a Category 1 hurricane, sustained winds can push rain horizontally at 74 to 95 miles per hour [1]. At those speeds, water doesn't politely respect gravity. It slams into your home's vertical surfaces with surprising force, probing every crack, seam, and weatherstripping failure around your doors and windows.

The National Hurricane Center notes that wind-driven rain can penetrate structures even when doors and windows remain closed and intact [2]. Water infiltrates through:

  • Worn or compressed weatherstripping

  • Gaps between door frames and walls

  • Window track drainage holes (designed for normal rain, not horizontal assault)

  • Tiny cracks in caulking around frames

  • The meeting points of sliding door panels

This isn't theoretical. Insurance adjusters regularly see homes where the roof held, the windows didn't break, and yet interior water damage runs into thousands of dollars—all from infiltration around sealed openings.

The Real Cost of Ignoring This Problem

Water intrusion from wind-driven rain doesn't announce itself with dramatic flooding. It seeps. It spreads. And it causes damage that often doesn't become apparent until days or weeks later.

According to the Insurance Information Institute, water damage claims average between $7,000 and $13,000 for residential properties [3]. But the financial hit only tells part of the story. Consider what actually happens when wind-driven rain gets inside:

Immediate damage:

  • Hardwood floors cup and warp

  • Carpet padding becomes saturated (and nearly impossible to fully dry)

  • Drywall absorbs moisture like a sponge

  • Electronics and appliances near windows or doors can short-circuit

Delayed consequences:

  • Mold growth can begin within 24 to 48 hours in humid conditions

  • Hidden moisture behind walls creates long-term structural issues

  • Paint blisters and peels weeks after the storm

  • Musty odors become permanent guests

For small businesses, the stakes multiply. A retail shop or office with water-damaged inventory, equipment, or records faces both repair costs and revenue loss during closure. Business interruption insurance helps, but it doesn't eliminate the disruption.

How Traditional Weatherproofing Falls Short in Hurricanes

Your doors and windows probably have weatherstripping. They might even be relatively new. So why doesn't that stop wind-driven rain?

Standard weatherstripping is designed for normal weather conditions—keeping out drafts, light rain, and insects. It's not engineered to handle water being forced against it at highway speeds for hours on end.

Here's what typically fails during a hurricane:

Weatherstripping compression: Foam and rubber weatherstripping compresses over time. What looks like an adequate seal might have gaps invisible to the eye but perfectly accessible to pressurized water.

Drainage design backfire: Window tracks include small drain holes (called weep holes) that allow normal rainwater to escape. During wind-driven rain, water is pushed into these holes instead of out of them, bypassing your entire window system.

Frame-to-wall gaps: Even properly installed doors and windows have small gaps where the frame meets the surrounding wall structure. Caulking deteriorates. Wood expands and contracts. Those micro-gaps become water highways during severe storms.

Threshold vulnerabilities: Door thresholds take the most abuse and deteriorate fastest. A threshold that passes the "paper test" (where you can't slide paper underneath) might still fail when water is being driven against it with force.

Why Duct Tape and Masking Tape Make Things Worse

When storms approach, many homeowners reach for whatever tape is in the junk drawer. Here's why that's a mistake:

Duct tape creates a weak seal against water pressure and leaves behind a sticky residue that can permanently damage paint, wood finishes, and vinyl. After the storm, you're left scraping adhesive off your door frames—or worse, discovering the tape pulled paint right off with it.

Masking tape isn't water-resistant at all. It saturates, loses adhesion, and often falls off mid-storm, leaving you with no protection and tape debris scattered around your property.

Plastic sheeting with tape seems logical but typically fails at the edges where tape meets irregular surfaces. Water finds its way underneath, and you've just created a moisture trap against your wall.

The uncomfortable truth is that most homes need additional, temporary protection before a major storm—something specifically designed to handle extreme conditions, stick to multiple surfaces, and remove cleanly afterward.

Temporary Sealing: A Practical Solution

Temporary sealing means adding a removable barrier layer over your most vulnerable entry points before a storm arrives. The key word is removable. You want protection that works during the event but doesn't require permanent modifications or leave damage behind.

This is where a purpose-built flood and storm barrier becomes essential. The specific requirement is a tape that:

  1. Creates a watertight seal against horizontal rain pressure

  2. Adheres to multiple surface types (wood, metal, vinyl, stucco, glass)

  3. Removes cleanly without stripping paint or leaving residue

  4. Applies quickly without tools or professional installation

FloodTape® meets these requirements. Originally designed as a flood barrier, it works equally well against wind-driven rain for a simple reason: water is water, whether it's rising from below or being thrown at your house from the side. The same adhesive seal that blocks floodwater also stops horizontal rain infiltration.

At 8 inches wide and 20 feet long per roll, FloodTape® covers door and window perimeters in a single application. The double-sided adhesive creates a watertight bond on contact, and the whole installation takes minutes per opening—no tools required [4].

Most importantly for storm preparation, FloodTape® removes cleanly after the threat passes. It won't strip paint, damage finishes, or leave sticky residue on your frames [5]. You can seal up before a storm and return to normal afterward without facing a restoration project of your own making.

Step-by-Step: Sealing Doors Against Wind-Driven Rain

Doors are the most common infiltration point for wind-driven rain because they have more gaps, moving parts, and wear points than windows. Here's how to seal them properly.

Important: Apply FloodTape® to the exterior side of your doors. Stopping water before it reaches the wall structure is far more effective than trying to block it from inside.

Materials needed:

  • FloodTape® (one roll typically covers one standard door)

  • Clean cloth or paper towels

  • Rubbing alcohol (optional, for stubborn grime)

  • Scissors

Step 1: Clean all surfaces

Wipe down the entire door frame perimeter—sides, top, and threshold—removing dust, dirt, and moisture. The adhesive bonds to the surface, not to debris. For painted or finished wood, a damp cloth works fine. For bare metal or very dirty frames, a quick wipe with rubbing alcohol ensures maximum adhesion.

Step 2: Start at the threshold

The bottom of the door is the most critical point. Cut a strip of FloodTape® long enough to cover the entire threshold plus about two inches on each side. Peel the backing and apply the tape so it overlaps from the floor, up the threshold, and onto the door itself (when closed), creating a continuous barrier.

Step 3: Seal the sides

With the door closed, run FloodTape® strips up each side of the frame, overlapping the threshold tape at the bottom. The tape should bridge the gap between the door and the frame, creating a seal where weatherstripping typically fails.

Step 4: Address the top

Apply tape across the top of the door frame, overlapping with the side strips at each corner. For extra protection, extend the tape slightly onto the wall surface around the frame.

Step 5: Seal the hinge side

Don't forget the hinge side. While it seems protected, wind pressure can flex doors slightly, creating momentary gaps. A strip along the hinge-side frame provides backup protection.

Step 6: Check for gaps

Once all tape is applied, run your hand along the edges to ensure firm adhesion. Press firmly on any areas that seem loose or bubbled.

Step-by-Step: Sealing Windows Against Wind-Driven Rain

Windows present different challenges than doors. They don't have thresholds, but they do have tracks, multiple moving panels, and often more frame-to-wall gaps. The approach varies slightly depending on your window type.

For All Window Types

Step 1: Clean the frame

Clean the entire window frame perimeter on the exterior. Pay special attention to the bottom track, which collects dirt and debris that can interfere with adhesion.

Step 2: Seal the bottom first

Apply FloodTape® along the entire bottom of the window frame, bridging the frame-to-wall gap.

Step 3: Seal the sides

Run tape up each side of the window, overlapping the bottom strip. The tape should cover the frame-to-wall seam.

Step 4: Complete the perimeter

Seal the top of the window frame, creating a complete perimeter seal.

For Double-Hung Windows

Double-hung windows have two sashes that slide vertically, creating a horizontal meeting rail in the middle where the two sashes overlap.

Additional step: Apply a strip of FloodTape® along the exterior side of the meeting rail where the upper and lower sashes meet. This horizontal seam is a common failure point during wind-driven rain.

For Sliding Windows

Sliding windows have vertical seams where panels meet and bottom tracks that collect debris.

Additional steps:

  • Apply tape along the vertical seam where the sliding panel meets the fixed panel

  • Seal along the bottom track where the window panels meet their frame

For Casement Windows

Casement windows crank outward and have hinges on one side with a locking mechanism on the other.

Additional step: Pay special attention to the area around the crank mechanism and handle, as these hardware penetrations can allow water intrusion. Apply tape to cover any gaps around the operating hardware on the exterior.

Covering Weep Holes

Those small drain holes at the bottom of your window tracks need temporary coverage during storms.

Critical reminder: Cover weep holes with small pieces of tape before the storm, but remove this tape immediately after the storm passes. Weep holes exist to drain normal condensation and rain. If you leave them covered long-term, trapped moisture can rot your window sill.

High-Priority Areas Most Homeowners Miss

Experience from hurricane-prone regions reveals several frequently overlooked entry points:

Garage doors: The weatherstripping around garage doors deteriorates quickly and rarely gets replaced. The bottom seal in particular takes abuse from vehicles and often has gaps. Seal the perimeter of your garage door, paying extra attention to the corners where the vertical and horizontal seals meet.

Sliding glass doors: These have multiple seams, a bottom track that fills with debris, and often a secondary fixed panel that doesn't seal tightly. Seal both the outer perimeter and the meeting point of the panels.

Exterior door hinges: On older doors especially, the hinge side can flex enough during high winds to create momentary gaps. A tape strip along the hinge side provides security.

Storm doors: If you have a storm door in addition to your main door, seal both. The gap between them can channel wind-driven rain directly to your primary door's weakest points.

Pet doors: These are rarely airtight and almost never watertight. Cover them completely and seal the edges.

Mail slots: Another overlooked entry point. Cover completely with tape before the storm.

Application Tips for Textured Surfaces

Stucco, brick, and other rough exterior surfaces require extra attention:

  • Use a tennis ball or small roller to press the tape firmly into textured surfaces

  • Work in small sections, pressing as you go rather than applying a long strip and then pressing

  • Apply slightly more pressure along the edges to ensure complete contact with the irregular surface

  • Consider using overlapping strips on very rough surfaces to ensure coverage

Before and After: What to Expect

Scenario 1: The Standard Entry Door

Before sealing: During a moderate storm, water pools at the threshold and seeps underneath. Dampness spreads across the entry floor, soaking a welcome mat and reaching the hardwood just beyond.

After sealing with FloodTape®: The same storm arrives, but the threshold barrier blocks water infiltration. After the storm passes, you peel off the tape to find a dry floor and intact finish. The door paint and frame show no damage or residue from the tape.

Scenario 2: The Sliding Glass Door

Before sealing: Wind-driven rain infiltrates through the bottom track and the center seam between panels. Water spreads across the floor, reaching nearby furniture and soaking into the carpet edge.

After sealing with FloodTape®: The track, seam, and perimeter are sealed. Despite hours of horizontal rain, the interior stays dry. Post-storm removal of the tape leaves no marks on the aluminum track or glass.

Scenario 3: The Small Business Storefront

Before sealing: A retail shop with a glass door and large display windows experiences water infiltration around the door threshold and window frames. Inventory near the windows is damaged. The store remains closed for cleanup and assessment.

After sealing with FloodTape®: The owner seals all entry points the day before the storm. When they return, the interior is dry. Inventory is intact. They open for business the following day while neighbors are still assessing damage.

Pre-Storm Sealing Checklist

Use this checklist to ensure comprehensive protection before a hurricane or severe storm:

Doors:

  • [ ] Clean all door frames and thresholds

  • [ ] Seal primary entry door threshold (bottom)

  • [ ] Seal primary entry door sides and top

  • [ ] Seal secondary doors (back door, side doors)

  • [ ] Seal garage door perimeter and corners

  • [ ] Seal sliding glass door track, seam, and perimeter

  • [ ] Seal storm door perimeter (if applicable)

  • [ ] Cover and seal pet doors and mail slots

Windows:

  • [ ] Clean all window frames

  • [ ] Seal perimeter of all ground-floor windows

  • [ ] Seal perimeter of upper windows on windward side of home

  • [ ] Seal sliding window panel seams

  • [ ] Seal double-hung window meeting rails

  • [ ] Seal around casement window hardware

  • [ ] Cover window weep holes temporarily

  • [ ] Seal any jalousie or louver windows completely

General:

  • [ ] Check all tape adhesion and press down loose areas

  • [ ] Photograph all sealed areas for insurance documentation

  • [ ] Store extra FloodTape® for any needed repairs during the storm

Timing: When to Seal Up

Timing matters. Seal too early and you can't use your doors normally. Seal too late and you're rushing in deteriorating conditions.

Ideal timeline:

  • 48 hours out: Gather supplies, ensure you have enough FloodTape® for all openings

  • 24 hours out: Clean all surfaces that will receive tape

  • 12-6 hours out: Apply tape to all windows and secondary doors

  • 6-2 hours out: Apply tape to primary entry door (the last one you'll seal)

  • Final check: Before the storm arrives, verify all seals and press down any loose areas

If conditions deteriorate faster than expected, prioritize ground-floor openings and whichever side of your home faces the incoming wind.

After the Storm: Removal and Assessment

Once the storm passes and conditions are safe:

Step 1: Document before removal

Photograph all sealed areas before removing tape. This documents your preparation for insurance purposes and helps you remember what worked well for next time.

Step 2: Remove tape carefully

Peel FloodTape® slowly, pulling at a low angle to the surface rather than straight out. The adhesive releases cleanly, but gentle removal ensures the best results.

Step 3: Remove weep hole covers immediately

Don't forget to uncover your window weep holes right away. Leaving them sealed after the storm can trap moisture and cause long-term damage to your window frames.

Step 4: Inspect for any infiltration

Check around each sealed area for any signs of water that may have found its way through or around your seals. Note any problem areas for improved sealing next time.

Step 5: Check surfaces

Verify that all surfaces are undamaged with no residue. If any sticky spots remain (rare but possible on textured surfaces), a damp cloth removes them easily.

Step 6: Store remaining tape

Unused FloodTape® remains effective for up to 24 months when stored in a cool, dry location. Keep it with your emergency supplies for next time.

Protect Your Home Before the Next Storm

Wind-driven rain doesn't care about your permanent weatherstripping. It doesn't respect your closed windows. And it definitely won't wait while you figure out what to do.

FloodTape® gives you a temporary, removable solution that actually works against horizontal rain infiltration. Easy to install, easy to remove, and no damage left behind.

Ready to seal out the storm? Get FloodTape® now and be prepared for whatever the weather brings.

Frequently Asked Questions

How is wind-driven rain different from regular flooding?

Wind-driven rain comes at your home horizontally rather than rising from below. It infiltrates through gaps around closed doors and windows that would never leak during normal rain. Sustained hurricane winds can push rain at speeds exceeding 74 miles per hour, forcing water through weatherstripping, window tracks, and tiny frame gaps that standard flood preparation doesn't address [1].


Can I use FloodTape® on textured surfaces like stucco or brick around my windows?

Yes, FloodTape® adheres effectively to a range of building materials including wood, glass, metal, stucco, vinyl, and stone [6]. For heavily textured surfaces like stucco or brick, use a tennis ball or small roller to press the tape firmly into the surface irregularities. Work in small sections and apply extra pressure along the edges to ensure complete contact and a watertight seal.


Why shouldn't I just use duct tape to seal my doors and windows?

Duct tape creates a weak seal against sustained water pressure and leaves behind sticky residue that can permanently damage paint, wood finishes, and vinyl surfaces. Many homeowners who used duct tape during storms report spending hours scraping adhesive off their frames afterward—or discovering the tape pulled paint right off when removed. FloodTape® is specifically designed to create a watertight seal and remove cleanly without damaging surfaces.


Will FloodTape® damage my painted door frames when I remove it?

No. FloodTape® removes cleanly without stripping paint, damaging finishes, or leaving sticky residue [5]. Multiple users in hurricane-prone areas have confirmed that even antique wood doors and painted frames remain undamaged after removal. For best results, peel the tape slowly at a low angle to the surface rather than pulling straight out.


How many rolls of FloodTape® do I need to protect my home?

Each roll covers 20 linear feet at 8 inches wide. A standard entry door requires roughly 18-20 feet to seal the complete perimeter (threshold, both sides, and top). Most homes need 2-4 rolls for comprehensive door and window protection, though larger homes or those with many windows on the windward side may need additional rolls. Consider the 6-pack bundle for multi-door homes or properties with extensive window coverage.



About This Guide

This guide was developed drawing on flood and storm preparedness best practices from FEMA, the National Hurricane Center, and the Insurance Information Institute. FloodTape® is a patent-pending DIY flood protection system developed in St. Augustine, Florida, by an inventor with over 15 years of firsthand experience preparing for hurricanes in one of America's most storm-prone regions. The product has been tested in real-world conditions by homeowners who have successfully protected their properties during major storm events.



Cited Works

[1] National Hurricane Center — "Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale." https://www.nhc.noaa.gov/aboutsshws.php

[2] FEMA — "Protecting Your Home from Hurricane Wind Damage." https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/risk-management/building-science/hurricanes

[3] Insurance Information Institute — "Facts + Statistics: Homeowners and Renters Insurance." https://www.iii.org/fact-statistic/facts-statistics-homeowners-and-renters-insurance

[4] FloodTape — "Simple DIY Flood Protection Tape." https://www.myfloodtape.com/product/flood-protection-tape

[5] FloodTape — "Customer Reviews." https://www.myfloodtape.com/store-locator

[6] FloodTape — "FAQs." https://www.myfloodtape.com/faq

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